Peru's headline sights sit high, and the mistake most itineraries make is flying straight into Cusco and starting a hike the next morning. Give altitude the respect it asks for and the rest of the country opens up: coast, mountains and Amazon within one trip.
Altitude first
Cusco sits well above three thousand metres, and mild headaches, breathlessness and poor sleep are common on arrival. Two easy days before any serious walking is the standard advice. Drink more water than usual, eat lightly, and skip alcohol on the first evening. Many travellers start lower in the Sacred Valley and climb to Cusco afterwards, which works well.
Getting around
Domestic flights cover the long distances between Lima, Cusco and the north. Long-distance buses are better than their reputation, with reclining seats on the main comfortable-class services. Trains serve limited but scenic routes, and popular ones sell out in high season, so book those early.
- Entry to the most popular sites is capped and timed, so reserve in advance
- Keep a photocopy of your passport with you and the original secure
- Regional weather varies hugely; pack for both sun and cold nights
Food
Lima's food scene deserves the attention it gets, but the everyday cooking around the country is the real pleasure: soups, grilled meats, potatoes in more forms than you expect, and ceviche on the coast. Set lunch menus offer very good value. Coca tea is offered widely at altitude and helps some people.
Common mistakes
Booking the famous hikes without permits, underestimating the cold at night in the highlands, and squeezing an Amazon leg into two days are the usual regrets. The Amazon needs three nights minimum to feel worth the travel time.
Manners and money
Greetings matter and a little Spanish goes a long way. Carry small notes, since change is often short. Bargaining in craft markets is normal but gentle; these are livelihoods, not games.
See our Sacred Valley route notes for a paced version of the classic circuit.