Lisbon changes at dusk. Terraces fill, the river reflects the bridge lights, and the climb up to a viewpoint stops being punishing. Between April and October the evening is the best part of the day.
A route that works
Start at Praca do Comercio around sunset, walk up through Baixa to Rossio, then climb to Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara. From there, Bairro Alto, and down through Bica to Cais do Sodre if you want a late drink.
Practical points
- Fado houses in Alfama take reservations and are worth booking
- Trams stop running earlier than you expect, check the last service
- The Bica funicular is closed some evenings for maintenance
Lisbon is a safe city by European standards, but pickpocketing on crowded transport is common. Ordinary caution is enough.
